Springtime in the Arctic

I knew immediately after the freezing mist settled upon my face that I had been secretly missing the Arctic. Like most days at the start of the season, the sky was gray, clouds hanging low and heavy with snow that was threatening to fall. Twenty-five degrees Fahrenheit was a stark change from the triple digit highs I had been experiencing in the desert Southwest in the days leading up to my journey to the land of the midnight sun.

Tundra surrounding Barrow, AK upon my arrival in May

Snow coverage this year was much different then it has been the past two years

My excitement and anticipation only increased as the familiar sounds of chortling Greater White-fronted Geese (Anser albifrons) and warbling Snow Buntings (Plectrophenax nivalis) were audible as I departed the Boeing 737 and made my way across the tarmac and into the Wiley Post-Will Rogers Memorial Airport in Utqiagvik (Barrow), Alaska.

I had spent the summer in Barrow last year (2016) and was returning this year again as a volunteer with the USFWS Shorebird Project. This long-term study was developed and launched by Richard Lanctot (USFWS Alaska Shorebird Coordinator) in 2003 and is entering its 15th field season. In a nutshell, the project utilizes six 600 x 600 meter study plots where shorebird nests are located and then followed to hatch. Data on nesting species composition, nest initiation dates, site fidelity, etc... is all gathered, and adults and chicks are banded. All of this information has culminated in several graduate projects over the course of its history and continues to help elucidate trends in shorebird demographics. The site is also a part of the Arctic Shorebird Demography Network (ASDN) which consists of multiple locations across the Arctic that collaborate on projects looking at a variety of topics, but particularly (at least this season) nest predation.

Ruddy Turnstone (Arenaria interpres)

One of several found along Cake Eater Rd and at the Landfill this season, unlike last year when we found very few. A pair was observed copulating near one of our study areas. Just one example of the variability in nesting waders from year-to-year

Located 350 miles north of the Arctic Circle, Barrow is the northernmost city in the United States (with a population of about 4,500). Barrow also happens to be the 11th northernmost city on Earth. Point Barrow, located a few miles north of town is the northernmost point of land in the US, and can be a good place to search for Polar Bears (Ursus maritimus). During the summer (mid-May to mid-August) it never fully gets dark, and during my time here I will never see the sun set. Despite the constant sunshine, the temperature is often rather cold, ranging from around twenty degrees Fahrenheit lows (though the seemingly ever-present wind can chill the temperature considerably) to highs of around 55 F. Occasionally the mercury will climb to almost 70 degrees, though this (usually) only happens once or twice during the summer.

Point Barrow, North Slope, AK

Northernmost point in the US

June 3, 2017

Polar Bear (Ursus maritimus) print seen at Point Barrow. Unfortunately we were unable to pick out the owner of these tracks on the sea ice on this particular visit.

Jun. 3, 2017

I intend to post several entries over the course of the season detailing some of the work that is going on up here. For now I thought I'd try to provide something of a laundry list of differences between this season, and last that I have noticed thus far. Keep in mind that the Arctic is naturally variable, which is one of the joys of working up here, no two years (or no two "days") are the same, and bird occurrence varies from year to year. However, there are several major trends I have noticed:
Snow melt in Barrow, AK has typically occurred from 12-15 of June, however it was *much* earlier in 2016 and 2015. This year seems to be much more "normal" in terms of timing. Last year's sea ice pack was approximately 3 miles, whereas this year's was closer to 14 miles. We have not seen any lemmings as of yet this year (still quite a bit of snow, which can hamper detection). There has not been a major irruption event of lemmings for the past several years, and it is still too early to say whether this will be the year.

One of three handsome Stilt Sandpipers (Calidris himantopus) found by the Barrow Shorebird Crew so far this season (none on plot). This species is quite rare this far west.

 The Loons (Red-throated, Pacific, and Yellow-billed all occur here) have been slow to return as compared to last year. As were the Jaegers (Long-tailed, Pomarine, and Parasitic all occur here). Eiders (Common, King, Spectacled, and Steller's) have largely been scarce, though a large flock (up to 27) Steller's have been hanging out along Cake Eater Rd east of town. A pair or two of Spectacled have also been seen here and there.

Pair of Steller's Eider (Polysticta stelleri) hanging out on a mostly frozen tundra pool. All four world Eider species occur in Barrow, Spectacled and Steller's being listed as federally threatened.

Because the ice is still so thick it has been difficult to observe moving eiders from the shore. While this timing seems slower, given the more 'typical" snow pack this year, perhaps this is standard timing. There has been a flurry of Varied Thrushes (Ixoreus naevius) this year, contrasting with the flurry of American Robins (Turdus migratorius) that were present last year.

Varied Thrush (Ixoreus naevius)

Barrow Cemetery, North Slope, AK

May 26, 2017

It is important to remember that, while this year may seem normal, it is definitely not cause to relax about the state of the climate in the Arctic. I had been expecting another early year given the abnormally warm fall/winter (36 F above average temperatures in November of 2016) though this has not been the case. Though the snow means no nests and apparently fewer birds so far, diversity of birds detected by yours truly has been essentially the same as last year (in fact higher, though there are some other factors at play there). I have caught myself cursing the snow and the associated difficulties it brings in terms of logistics and locomotion in the field, I am relieved to have the opportunity to experience a "normal" Arctic spring before the thralls of climate change make June 15th melt dates a thing of the past. It is critical to remember that climate change is not linear, and so fluctuations are to be expected, while the general trend is still towards a warmer summer and earlier spring.

Pectoral Sandpiper (Calidris melanotos) taking advantage of one of the few open pools of water near Cake Eater Rd, Barrow, AK

Jun. 4, 2017

For example, since 2003, the initiation date for the first nest on the plots has gotten 0.8 days earlier every year. While this year's later initiation date will inevitably lower this number (it is a relatively short time period), other metrics also suggest an earlier melt date and an ominously warming Arctic.

So no Dusky Thrush (Turdus naumanni) or Curlew Sandpiper (Calidris ferruginea) yet, but the season is still young. Here's to another field season in the Final Frontier!

Hoar frost clinging to the grasses on one of the few open patches of tundra, Barrow, AK

Jun. 3, 2016